Mt. Lhakpa - Ri Expedition
Mt. LHAKPA RI (7,045m. /23,000ft) is one the major mountaineering destination in Tibet. . It is very close to Mount Everest and one feels as equal to be climbed Mt. Everest the moment
It was first climbed by George Mallory who was on his way to the Everest Reconnaissance in 1921; and he had seen its North Col. Still the present expedition mountaineers teams are following the same route in order to make the summit. The summit view from Lhakpa Ri rivals that from many of the world\'s greatest mountains. It gives very unusual views of some of the world\'s best known mountains and excellent views of some very little known mountains.
It is just over the milestone altitude of 7,000m, making it higher than anything outside Asia and is probably the most climbable 7,000m peak in the world. Its an ideal objective, remarkably positioned just across the glacier from Everest. It shares the historic route up the East Rongbuk Glacier and is climbable by a relatively safe and straightforward route
There are two major way to start the Expedition, the one way, you must fly to beautiful & traditional city Lhasa & another way you must drive from KTM via Zangmu/Nylam, tingry & base camp (5200m). The visit to Lhasa, the overland journey across the Tibetan Plateau, the trek in the footsteps of Mallory and a climb with awesome views of Everest, are the ingredients of a very special expedition. It will also give a life-long impression of Tibet and its people and an insight and deep respect for the achievements of the early Everest pioneers. After reaching at the base camp, you have to spend a few days for acclimatization. In order to start your real climbing toward the summit, you should start your expedition ahead towards the Middle camp 5780m, with the preparation of loading yaks and expedition crews. Then you have to take a nights rest in this middle camp. Continuing ahead to this track you reach at the Advance Base camp, which is situated at the height of 6400m. From ABC, start early in the morning; and you should go continue crossing the Rongbuk glacier. There are few crevasses and slopes from the Rongbuk and Kharta glacier and they are relatively low angled which are linked by the Lhak Pa pass 6848m; and it is just to the North of Lhakpa Ri until you reach at the very foot of the slope, leading to you to the North ridge of the Summit. The routes are 20 30 degrees vertical elevations. This route to climb is not so hard but the vertical way is very long. You have use main rope with the group of 4-6 climbers at this time here. Following the way of the North ridge on the other side you see Kharta glacier and the views of North Col of Everest. The same way of the ridge leads up to the Summit of Lhakpa Ri
Itinerary
Expedition Itinerary
Day 1 Arrive in Kathmandu & transfer to Hotel
Day 2 Equipments checking & preparation
Day 3 Drive to Border & continue drive to Zangmu
Day 4 Drive to Nyalam (3700m)
Day 5 Acclimatize day in Nyalam (3700m)
Day 6 Drive to Tingri
Day 7 Acclimatize day in Tingri
Day 8 Drive to Base camp
Day 09 -10 Trek to Base Camp (5200m)
Day 11 Trek to Camp i (5700m)
Day 12 Trek to Camp II (Everest IC, 5900)
Day 13 Trek to Changse base camp III (6100)
Day 14 Trek to ABC (6400m)
Day 15 Day hike to crampon point & back to ABC
Day 16 Final preparation at ABC
Day 17 Lhakpa Ri Summit day (7045) & back to ABC
Day 18 Spare day at ABC
Day 19 Trek back to base camp
Day 20 Base camp & preparation
Day 21 Drive to Nylam/Zangmu
Day 22 Cross the Chinese border & drive to KTM
Day 23 Own shopping & evening celebration
Day 24 Fly back to home at schedule time
Optional Itinerary to BC via Lhasa
Day 3 Fly Kathmandu (1400m) - Lhasa (3660m)
Day 4/5 Sightseeing in Lhasa (3660m)
Day 6 Drive Lhasa Shigatse (3900m) 280 km
Day 7 Drive Shigatse - Shegar (4050m) 244km
Day 8 Rest day at Shegar for acclimatization
Day 9 Drive Shegar - Rongbuk (5000m) 68km
Price Include/Not Include
Services Included
Royalty of peak & road permit
Chinese visa approval & visa fee including Nepalese staffs
Chinese custom clearances
Necessary bus/jeep to & from Kodari border & tuck to carry the equipments up to Kodari.
Land cruiser from Chinese border to base camp & back
Chinese truck to carry equipment and food to base camp
Full board accommodation (Breakfast, Lunch & dinner in Guest houses) en-route to/from Base camp.
Chinese Liaison officer & interpreter.
One head Guide/Sardar & his wages
Cook & kitchen boys & his wages
Climbing Sherpa & his wages as per ARUN policy (1:3 or 01 sherpa per 03 member)
All meals at BC & ABC
Available high altitude foods for higher camps
High quality tent at BC and ABC either single or twin sharing
All necessary kitchen equipments
Climbing hard wear gear including fixed rope
Dinning tent with gas heater
Yaks for BC-ABC-BC to carry the loads
High quality high altitude tents for higher camps
Gamov/Altitude Chamber bag & complete medical kit for medical propose
02 bottles of oxygen with mask regulator set for medical propose
Down jackets/sleeping bags for BC, on request only
Insurance of all local team members
All airport/hotel transfers.
Half day city sight seen tour with English speaking guide with transport
Services Excluded
o Personal medical & evacuation Insurance
o Nepal visa/re-entry visa fees
o Major meals in Kathmandu.
o Personal climbing gears.
o Cost of emergency evacuation
Tips & Summit bonus
Additional Services if you Required
Extra climbing Sherpa :US $ 3500 (Which includes Tibet entrance fees, Chinese visa fees, insurance, food during the expedition, equipment bonus, daily wages etc)
POISK 4 liter Oxygen : US $ 430/- per bottle
Mask set : US $ 530 (purchase); US $ 200 (hire)
Personal satellite phone : US $ 500 (royalty only)
Lhasa extension : US $ 775/- per person (Includes Lhasa airfare+ 03 days Lhasa tour)