In addition, an expedition to Ama Dablam is more than just a climb. It’s a journey into the heart of the Himalayas. Located in the Khumbu valley of Nepal, only 12 km from the summit of Mount Everest, Ama Dablam demands the attention of every passer-by. Soaring ridgelines and super-steep faces guard the summit from all but the experienced climber. From the summit you are surrounded by a vista of peaks like no other, five of the highest six peaks in the world are clearly visible.

The first ascent (via the SW ridge) of Ama Dablam was not made until the mid 60’s by a strong NZ/USA team. The north ridge fell to a talented French team as late as 1979. In recent years many parties have successfully climbed the mountain, with nearly all ascents via the original SW ridge route.

Our ascent will be made via the conventional SW ridge route, a technical route that requires 3500m of fixed ropes and four camps above base camp. The climb can often be completed easily in less than four weeks; however we do build in an extra week in case of exceptionally bad weather. The climbing on the route involves pure rock climbing on exquisite granite followed by mixed snow and rock climbing. The last section to the summit involves ice climbing followed by a long steep snow slope: often ropes are employed all the way to the summit. The reasons for this are three-fold: safety, speed and success. Due to the technical nature of the route, ropes will be fixed for most of the climb above camp one. Although we can brush-up your skills at base camp, a good working knowledge of abseiling and use of mechanical ascenders (jumars) is mandatory: prior experience is required. This might involve a couple of weekend sessions at your local cliff or bridge.

Objective danger on the SW Ridge route is minimal, ice cliffs do not threaten it, the snow slopes are generally stable (with minimal avalanche risk), the rock is of good quality and the mountain is below the reach of jet stream winds. The route is extremely exposed and mistakes with rope work can be unforgiving. For this reason we recommend you to have an experienced guide to keep you safely on track. & strong local climbing Sherpa team to help us on the mountain. The Sherpas are the key to success. They carry and assemble our tents, fix much of the rope and supply each camp with food, stoves and gas cylinders. Without the aid of Sherpas the chances of success are diminished and all your hard work can be wasted. Often the Sherpas are able to stock camps with sleeping bags as well! This then allows each climber to focus on getting up the hill. Your guide will be involved in the fixing of rope and the smooth running of the expedition but their primary concerns are client safety, service and success. Your guide will be climbing with you at all times, often assisted by a climbing Sherpa. Your guide and Sherpa will ensure your safety and make decisions regarding safety and weather. Your guides perform cooking and other camp duties. This allows you to rest and enjoy your surroundings at each of the camps. You are then left to carry only your personal gear between camps.

We will recommend you to have minimum of 1:2 climbing sherpas, a camp one cook, base camp cook, one kitchen boy and a message runner. We can add extra Sherpas if required). We use a lot of Sherpa power and we have exceptional food in base camp and on the mountain. Our tents are all high mountains quality and roomy enough to enable you to enjoy a comfortable nights sleep. If you want the best chance of success– this is it! We provide the highest quality commercial operation available on Ama Dablam.

KATHMANDU 

When you arrive in KTM we will meet you at the airport and transfer you to a good hotel. You will have at least one day to look around KTM while we organize the final permits and other formalities that can only be done with passports in hand. We can organize a tour of KTM for you or you may wish to do it on your own, or just relax. You will find KTM is a very busy, beautiful, ugly, interesting, dusty, different third world city. If you have never been to a third world country before be prepared for an “experience”. KTM is very safe though, the people are very friendly and many speak excellent English. Whilst theft can be an issue if you leave things lying around, violent crime against tourists is almost unheard of. Your personal safety is better in Nepal than most western world cities. There are many interesting temples, markets and shops to visit. There are also many internet cafes and second hand climbing gear shops for last minute items.

THE TREK IN TO BASE CAMP 

We fly from KTM to Lukla in the Khumbu district some, 30 minutes flying time, in a Twin Otter aircraft. Arriving at 2900m above sea level we have to take it easy so as to allow our bodies to acclimatize. In Lukla we load our equipment onto dzopyok and porters for the two days walk to Namche Bazaar. Dzopyok are the low altitude version of the yak. Once in Namche and above we can use that mighty beast of burden the yak. Each one of these yaks can carry loads of 60 kg for long distances in a single day. We pack our gear into appropriate bags of 30 kg each so as to load the yak evenly on each side. Porters may also carry loads of 30kg each. The people of the Khumbu are predominantly Sherpa people. These people are of Tibetan origin and are strongly Buddhist. The trails, villages and hilltops are adorned with Buddhist prayer flags of various colours, each colour representative of different aspects of the environment such as rivers, sky etc. On our first day we walk for only a couple hours and stay in the small quiet village of Phakding (“next to river”). We use local teahouses and lodges rather than camping on the trek to base camp.

Once everyone has adjusted sufficiently to the new altitude we walk a further day to the village of Pangboche at 3900 m. On the way we visit the famous Tangboche monastery,  which is the largest in the area. In Pangboche we have a further nights (more if needed) to allow everyone to acclimatise. On our spare day here we often walk up the valley further to Dingboche or up a steep track to a small Karkha (“flat place”) where the yaks are grazed in the summer months. Spectacular views and a good aerobic work-out are the rewards. We also make visit the local Lama who will bless all the expedition members and give us good luck on the mountain. Once everyone is ready, we make the short walk up to base camp (about two hours) and begin our preparations for our ascent of the mountain. In base camp we also hold another Buddhist ceremony called a Puja. This ceremony is important for our Sherpa guides. In this ceremony the base camp is blessed along with our ice axes and crampons, this then allows us to begin our task of climbing the mountain without angering the local gods. Many climbing Sherpas will take a good luck charm with them tied around their neck to keep them safe. This would have been presented to them by one of the head Lamas in the valley.

Base camp (4600 m): Situated on a large grassy meadow with a wonderful views.

To yak camp (5400 m): We use yaks to carry most of our equipment for this section, which saves us three to fours hours of heavy work. There is a rough track over very rocky terrain, which the yaks and we use.

To camp one (5800 m): Our first real camp is only one and half hours walk above Yak camp. This section is marked by rock cairns and involves boulder hopping and some easy scrambling. We sometimes fix a couple of sections with rope to be used as a handrail.

Camp one to camp two (6000 m) : Now we are really climbing. This section of the route is usually rock climbing only, depending on the season. The granite is high quality and the moves fun, challenging and exposed but “do-able”. We follow a narrow ridge, switching back and forth on each side of the ridge. This is the hardest rock climbing of the entire route. In places the exposure is extreme and you are very thankful of the fixed ropes in place. Whilst it is generally easier not to pull on the ropes all the time if you are finding the going getting a bit too hard you can just rest on the fixed rope. You can also use your jumar to help you over the odd spot of difficulties. Most of the climbing on this section is traversing on rock, so good rock climbing skills will help you move efficiently and quickly over this terrain.

Camp two: Situated on top of the Yellow Tower on a narrow platform this camp site is rather exposed and has fantastic views. If you dropped your cup from here it would probably land in base camp!

Camp two to camp three (6300m): Now for the hardest snow and ice pitches of the route. We follow a system of steep snow and ice gullies up to join a feature called the Mushroom Ridge. Whilst the ridge itself is not as technical as the gullies leading up to it, the exposure here is palpable. It is a narrow, windy, snow mushroom-like ridge with giant Himalayan peaks in the background. This feature leads us up onto a small plateau at 6300 m, which serves the purpose of camp three.

Camp three: A cold and exposed position, is the start of our summit push. The Sherpas will often use a full climbing rope to tie our tents down as the natural shape of the mountain can at times unfortunately funnel the wind to this location. It is however the only safe flat piece of real estate within range of the summit.

PERSONAL GEAR REQUIRED

* Helmet,

* Head lamp,

* spare batteries,

* Sun Hat

* Sunglasses, plus spares which can be goggles

* Sun screen and lip balm

* Balaclava

* Fleece scarf or neck gaiter

* Thermal top, thick

* Fleece jacket

* Gore Tex jacket

* Down jacket, expedition weight or second warm fleece jacket

* Thermal liner gloves

* Wind Stopper fleece gloves

* Fleece or woolen mittens with Gore Tex over mitt

* Thermal long pants

* Fleece long pants

* 2 pairs socks, plus spares

* Vapour barrier socks (available from Black Diamond)

* Plastic mountaineering boots, Koflach Arctis Expeditions or One Sport Everests

* Crampons of rapid-fix, quick-release bail type

* Harness

* Abseiling gear: descender (fig 8), locking biner

* Ascending gear: two ascenders (Petzl expedition ascenders are good) plus slings of tape

* 2 Lanyards: 2 pieces of cord or tape with caribiners for clipping onto fixed rope

* Ice axe: one only

* Sleeping bag: 1100grams down minimum, with dry loft outer shell

* Second sleeping bag for base camp and trekking, 900 grams of down minimum

Package Cost: Please email us to recieve good price & more info!!

SERVICE INCLUDES

• Peak permit and all govt. taxes.
• 4  nights hotel in Kathmandu on twin sharing BB basis.
• Domestic airfares and airport tax.
• Custom clearance, domestic cargo and excess baggage.
• Liaison office cost.
• One head Sardar/Guide.
• Cook (s) and necessary kitchen staff.
• Required number of porter and yaks with herder.
• High Altitude Climbing Sherpa 1:2 (01 Sherpa per two clients).
• All necessary climbing hardware gears.
• All necessary camping and kitchen gears for both trek and climb.
• All meals and available high altitude food for above BC.
• High Altitude VE-25 North Face tents.
• Oxygen with regulator set for medical purpose only.
• Gammov bag for medical propose.
• Walkie-talkie set with radio base.
• EPI gas with burner.
• Arun Sleeping bag & down jacket on request.
• Insurance of climbing Sherpa and local team members
• All airport/hotel transfers by private van.
• Cultural celebration meal.

SERVICE EXCLUDES

• Medical/personal high risk insurance
• Personal climbing gears.
• Major meals in Kathmandu.
• Cost of personal nature.
• Tips
• Cost of electronic appliances.
• International air ticket and international departure tax